INTRODUCTION
Fraser's Hill is named after Louis James Fraser, a Scotsman who prospected for gold in Australia but eventually struck tin here instead in the 1890s. Employing Chinese miners to do the hard work for him and earning his keep by operating mule trains down the mountain, Fraser set up opium and gambling dens to increase his profits, which may have had something to do with his subsequent mysterious disappearance. The tin ran out in 1913, but the lush valley within was rediscovered as a colonial hill resort that, thanks to its 1524m elevation, enjoys considerably cooler temperatures than Kuala Lumpur. By 1922 a road had been cut through the mountains to the valley, which soon sprouted bungalows and even one of Malaya's first golf courses.
Not much has changed since, and Fraser's Hill retains a wonderfully weird mixed-up character, where locals eat curries off banana leaves in a English cottage next to a golf course while the call to prayer sounds from the mosque.
Orientation
Orienting yourself in Fraser's Hill is easy enough: the entrance via the Gap is at the southwest corner of the valley and the "center" as such is at the intersection of Jalan Genting and Jalan Lady Guillemard, with the much-photographed clock tower marking the spot. Most restaurants and shops are clustered here, while the golf course takes up the bottom of the valley and bungalows and swanky residences dot the hills all around.
DIRECTIONS TO FRASER'S HILL
Fraser's Hill is located 105 km north of Kuala Lumpur, around 2 hours by car. For a long time, access to Fraser's Hill was possible only via a 8-km one-lane road known as the The Gap, used by uphill and downhill traffic in turns. However, a new road was completed in 2001, and while promptly closed for repairs it is, as of March 2006, open once again. Now all upward traffic uses the new road, while the old Gap road is designated for downward traffic, with no time restrictions round the clock.
For road conditions from Kuala Kubu Bahru (KKB) or Raub to Fraser's Hill, contact the police station in Fraser's Hill +609 3622222.
By taxi
Aside from a private car, the easiest way to get to Fraser's Hill to charter a taxi from Kuala Lumpur. Normal KL taxis can't do the trip, but you can arrange one from the Puduraya bus station, or call up Selangor Radio Taxi (tel. 03-2936213) or Comfort Taxi (tel. 03-7330495). You can expect to be quoted around RM200 for a one-way transfer, but this can be negotiated down, even more so for a return trip.
By bus or train
Bus services are somewhat inconvenient but not impossible if you time things right. You have to first take a bus from KL's Puduraya station to Kuala Kubu Baru. The buses are not known to run on schedule and a real pain locating their boarding point.
A better bet is to travel by rail on the KTM Kommuter to Rawang where there are more local route buses to Kuala Kubu Bahru to arrive on time for the only direct bus journey at 10.30 a.m. This departure is punctual.
From KKB change for a shuttle bus to Fraser's Hill. There are two trips per day. The trip which leaves KKB at 10.30 a.m. is the only trip which will go all the way to Fraser's Hill. From Fraser's hill, this trip continues to Raub.
Another trip at 4.00 p.m. passes through the Gap but does not go to Fraser's Hill. It's a 8 kilometer walk to Fraser's Hill or one could hitch a ride
GETTING AROUND FRASER'S HILL
For getting around Fraser's Hill, your own car is the best option. Most distances are, however, walkable if you're not in hurry and don't mind going up/downhill or taking the trails through the jungle.
THINGS TO DO
See
Fraser's Hill is famed worldwide as a birdwatching destination, with over 250 species recorded. Winners during the annual Bird Race have spotted as many as 70 species within 24 hours!
- Fraser's Hill Nature Education Centre, Jalan Genting, . On the second floor of the Sports Complex, this WWF-affiliated center has some lacklustre displays about flora and fauna in the area, but the staff are quite helpful and visiting is free (donations welcome).
Do
The top sporty activities on Fraser's Hill are hiking and golf.
Hiking
There are eight signposted trails around Fraser's Hill, although some have been closed at least temporarily after a well-publicized incident in 2005 when three young boys got lost in the jungle. Watch out for leeches.
- Hemmant Trail. An easy 20-minute trail along the north side of the golf course.
- Bishop's Trail. Effectively a continuation of the Hemmant Trail, this is a slightly more challenging half-hour track through the jungle. Slippery when wet.
- Pine Tree Trail. A challenging 6-kilometer trail up and down hills to the eponymous Pine Tree Hill, and you'll have to return the way you came to boot. This is a full-day hike that will take 7-8 hours at a moderate pace.
Golf
- Fraser's Hill Golf and Country Club, tel. +60-9-3622777. 18 holes. Green fees RM100/120 weekdays/weekends. On a recent Saturday noon visit (September 2006), it was completely deserted. The greens looked well maintained, but there wasn't a single player in sight. The swimming pools were disused: one was filled with stagnant rain-water.
- Royal Fraser's Hill Golf Club. 9 holes in the middle of the valley, build on top of the former tin mine. Challenging.
Tennis
- With such a delightful climate, Fraser's Hill ought to be perfect for tennis. Unfortunately, the courts have been neglected. Both Pines Resorts and SilverPark have courts, but they have fallen into disrepair. There are two public courts on the Pines Road (next to the Pahang Instana), but they are barely playable. The courts are filthy, so be prepared to discard your balls after a few plays (they turn from yellow to black). (September 2006)
SHOPPING
While you can get your fill of Fraser's Hill T-shirts and fridge magnets from the souvenir shops around the clock tower, the most useful local fashion accessory in these parts is a pair of leech socks. Baggy stockings of unbleached cotton worn over your pants, these not only prevent unwanted blood transfusions, but also double as handy Christmas decorations if you paint on a reindeer or two. RM16 from the Nature Education Centre.
- Marina's Gift Shop, at the Puncak Inn. T-shirts (RM18-39), fridge magnets, accessories (RM3-10), local souvenirs and wall hangings (RM10-15).
CUISINE
Eat
- Hillview Restaurant, Puncak Inn (at clock tower) serves Chinese and Western food. Tasty and relatively good value; Chinese meal for four at RM60 (September 2006).
- Arzed, Puncak Inn (at clock tower) serves local food and drinks ( RM4.50 - 6.50 )
- Food Court, Jalan Genting (just south of the mosque; uphill from clock tower). This is actually just a small cluster of hawker stalls serving up cheap and tasty local food. Most meals under RM5. Too many flies (September 2006)!!
Drink
Nightlife in Fraser's Hill is basically nonexistent, but the Tavern and the Smokehouse can serve you a pint of Guinness.
ACCOMMODATION
Most visitors come during the weekend, so it's not usual for rates to be discounted as much as 50% on weekdays.
Mid-range
- Jelai Highlands Resort, Jalan Ampang, tel. +60-9-3622600. This aging resort looks more appealing from afar than up close, but it's comparatively economical and functional. Standard (twin) room RM90/100, double (queen) room RM100/120 weekdays/weekends.
- Sri Peninjau, Jalan Girdle, tel. +609 3622500 or email: arzed@tm.net.my, 1 bedroom and 2 bedroom apartments located 3.5 kms from the town centre. Peak seasons at RM80 - 120 nett and off peak RM60 - 90 nett. Ideal location for birding.
- Silver Park Apartments are an alternative self-catering option. It is a brisk half hour walk to the town centre. Apartments have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, kitchen and a balcony with good views.
Splurge
The best way to splurge on Fraser's Hill is to rent a private bungalow. Rates vary widely, from under RM300/day for a small, crumbling bungalow to RM1500/day for a top-of-the-line outfit complete with housekeeper. All bungalow have multiple bedrooms and can easily fit 4 or more people. Book directly with the Fraser's Hill Development Corporation, tel. +60-9-3622044.
- Ye Olde Smokehouse, Jalan Jeriau, tel. +60-9-3622226, fax +60-9-3622035. This Tudor-style house is the best choice for a spot of colonial swank. Rooms from RM280+, including English breakfast. Avoid ground floor rooms -- you won't be able to sleep from the noise of the guests above walking around. Breakfast was great. Dinner was way over-priced (September 2006).
Contact
Start your visit by dropping into the Fraser's Hill Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Genting, to your left past the top gate of the Gap. They hand out a useful (albeit scaleless) map and can advise on trails and such.
ADVICE FOR TRAVELERS
The trails are fairly well marked but not trivial, so register your intentions with the Tourist Information Centre if you plan on tackling the longer ones. Watch out for muddy trails after rain and take precautions against leeches.
Be careful not to leave anything of value in your car or trunk of value when you are visiting places like the waterfall, as there have been cases of cars being burgled.
