Destination Guide »

INTRODUCTION

Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, East Malaysia.

Once the capital of the White Rajahs of Sarawak, now with a population of some 500,000, Kuching is small enough to walk around but interesting enough to keep you there for several days, and a good base for exploring Sarawak. It's safe and relatively clean. The name of the city, Kuching, is thought to derive from the Malay word kucing, meaning cat. Many of the locals refer to Kuching as the "Cat City" but it more likely comes from the Chinese word for port ("cochin") coupled with the Malay name mata kucing (cat's-eye) for the longan fruit, a popular trade item.

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DIRECTIONS TO KUCHING

By plane

Kuching International Airport (IATA: KCH) is Sarawak's main gateway and, in East Malaysia, second only to Kota Kinabalu in size. There are near-hourly connections to Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, as well as flights to Johor Bahru, Kota Kinabalu and points elsewhere in Sarawak on Fly Asian Xpress (FAX) (formerly MAS Rural Air Service). International connections are rather limited, although there are a few weekly services to Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Jakarta, and Singapore.

The airport underwent a major facelift in 2005-2006 and is now modern and pleasant. Kuching city is about 20 minutes away by taxi, a fixed RM17.50 from the taxi coupon stand just outside arrivals. There are also rather intermittent (once every hour or so) buses to the city center for RM1.

When checking in, note that all flights outside Sarawak are considered "international", even if you're only going elsewhere in Malaysia. There is a basic restaurant on the ground floor before security.

By boat

Express Bahagia and Express Sejahtera express boats run once daily each from Sibu to Kuching and back (4 hours, RM36).

By bus

The long-distance bus terminal located along Jalan Penrissen; also dubbed as "4 and a half miles".

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GETTING AROUND KUCHING

By bus

Kuching's hotels have banded together to offer a free City Tram (really just a bus) service that shuttles around major sights once every hour. Ask for a City Tram sticker and route map from your hotel lobby.

Other local buses are run by a colorful assortment of companies, but there's a reasonably logical line numbering system and bus stops usually have some signage.

By boat

Tambang boats shuttle across the river at various points, all charging a fixed RM0.30 per passenger.

On foot

Kuching is unusually pedestrian-friendly for a Malaysian city, with tree-lined sidewalks and pedestrian crossings, and the city core is compact enough to cover on foot. Good walks include the Waterfront and the pedestrian shopping street of Jalan India (Kuching's Little India).

THINGS TO DO

Kuching's major sights are its museums. Clustered just south of the center, a program of refurbishment started in 2002 is shuffling up the exhibits.

• Chinese History Museum, Waterfront (east end of Main Bazaar). A small colonial-era museum that used to be the Chinese Court of Kuching, now houses a small permanent exhibition of Kuching's many Chinese groups and regional worthies.

• Dewan Tun Abdul Razak, Jl. Tun Abang Haji Openg (opposite Sarawak Museum). Formerly the New Wing of the Sarawak Museum, now houses changing exhibitions and has a rather good gift shop.

• Fort Margherita, across the river. Built on the orders of James Brooke to guard his fledgling capital.

• Sarawak Museum, Jl. Tun Abang Haji Openg. Housing the largest ethnographic collection in Borneo, the Old Building of the Sarawak Museum was originally the residence of James Brooke, the first White Rajah of Sarawak. The first floor now houses a rather ordinary collection of stuffed and mounted animals as well as an oil industry panegyric sponsored by Shell; the second floor is more interesting, with a walk-through longhouse model and extensive displays of tribal artifacts. Spot the small case documenting palang, the penis piercing jewelry worn by Iban men. Free entry, open from 9 AM to 5:30 PM daily except holidays.

• Tua Pek Kong Temple, Jl. Padungan (east end of Main Bazaar). Ornate Chinese temple.

DO

Kuching is a great home-base for jungle trekking and exploring Borneo.

• Kuching Kayaking You can choose to kayak in the Sarawak river (in the city) for a leisurely and unique perspective of Kuching; or you can choose to kayak in the sea where you may bump into dolphins; or you may choose to kayak through the rainforest and experience the sights and sounds of the jungles of Borneo. Whichever you choose, its an experience you won't soon forget!

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SHOPPING

There's some interesting shopping in Kuching. For a wide selection of tribal handicrafts and touristy gewgaws, head down to the aptly named 'Main Bazaar street on the Kuching waterfront. It's worth going inside for a look, as many shops have larger and more authentic collections hidden away upstairs or in a back room.

Note that, in this mostly Christian city, some shops close on Sundays.

Markets

• Sunday Market (Pasar Minggu), off Jl. Satok (between Esso gas station and Wisma Satok). A Kuching institution, starting every Saturday afternoon and winding down by noontime Sunday. Very much a workaday market, with tourists few and far between, the emphasis is on fresh food of every description. Be sure to try some apam balik (pancake with nuts and margerine, very filling, absolutely delicious and only RM1 a piece). Bring along suitable footwear plus a tolerance for heat, crowds and powerful odors.

• Two other local markets, more conveniently located and open daily, can be found at the west end of Jl. India.
• Shopping Centres
  • Sarawak Plaza, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Holiday Inn). One of Kuching's older malls.
  • Tun Jugah, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (opposite Sarawak Plaza), stands majestically twelve storeys tall at the commercial and financial hub of Kuching City. It comprises of three levels of retail stores, nine levels of office space, and two levels of basement car park.
  • Wisma Serbakas, located at the junction of Jln. Tun Abang Haji Openg and Jln. Rock, is a round tower on the outskirts (approximately 15 minutes from the Waterfront) that offers a feast of hi-tech products based around mobile telephones and computers.
  • Crowne Plaze - Parkson Grand, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (opposite Sarawak Plaza). Standard Parkson fare, with Times Bookstore, shoeshops, jewellery and the likes. Also Giant Supermarket under the same roof.
  • Kenyalang Park, Kenyalang Suburb. A very old place that consists of a cluster of shophouses and one enclosed area. Its the place to go if you want to find cheap items like clothes, accessories and DVDs/VCDs. Around Jan-Feb, Chinese families come here to get supplies for the Chinese New Year celebrations - which are available only once a year.

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CUISINE

Eating out is the major pastime, with a huge variety of eateries and food available. Most places are pretty cheap with excellent service but the more "local", the less English spoken. Be sure to sample some Sarawak laksa, but beware - it's considered a breakfast dish here and the popular places sell out fast. For the local Chinese, kolo mee, a noodle dish served with slices of roasted pork, is also a daily staple. Although most places are quite clean, there are some which are not. A rule of thumb is if you're not comfortable with it, than walk somewhere else. There is plenty to choose from!

Budget

• Black Pepper Burger, Jln. Haji Taha 111. A simple stall dishing out very peppery burgers (RM1.40) and a gruesome-looking but tasty chicken gravy hotdogs (RM1.50).

• Chong Choon, Jln. Abell (opposite Maybank). One of Kuching's two famous laksa joints. Usually sold out by noon.

• Choon Hui, Jln. Ban Hock (near Grand Continental Hotel). The other famous laksa joint. Spicy and popular, get here before 10 AM.

• Bishopsgate Coffeeshop, Carpenter Street. Famous for what may be decades already, the Vinegar 'Kolo Mee' and Pork 'Spare-part' soup is what people line up for everyday. Also famous is the man who runs the stall - he is a colorful character who takes your order like a drill sergeant. It opens for breakfast and lunch, but to avoid the crowds, its best to go around 'Brunch' time. When you get a seat, expect to wait awhile for your food. And while you wait, try their excellent 'Teh-C Peng Special' (Strong iced milk-tea with a dark sweet syrup)

• Suan Chicken Rice, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Pizza Hut). A popular lunch-time joint where the office-crowd go for Hainanese Chicken Rice.

• Open Air Market, Jln. Market (opposite Electra House Shopping Centre and near 'Padang Merdeka' Police Station). Despite the name, the place is actually covered. It has a wide variety of stalls serving Malay and Chinese cuisine. Their most popular stall is the one serving Beef Noodles and Sio Bi (pork dumplings). Also popular is the fresh porridge and seafood stalls. But beware, this area is not the cleanest of places so order your food from only the most popular stalls.

Mid-range

• Khatulistiwa, Jln. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Holiday Inn). This distinctive circular hut modeled on a Bidayuh skull house is popular with tourists, and with reason. There's a nice, breezy open-air restaurant downstairs, serving up local and Western favorites including a decent Sarawak laksa (RM8.90) and open 24 hours to boot; at nights, the hut's upper floors open up as a bar and club, with DJs spinning the night away, though you can also take your meal up there in the evenings. Also check out the Harbor View hotel, it has an excellent restaurant with very friendly service open to non-guests.

• Benson Seafood, No. 112 Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman, tel. 082-255262. A riverside restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood Chinese style. It is well-established and don't be surprised to see them catering to groups of tourists.

Drink

There are plenty of good bars and are usually grouped together in areas around Kuching. Be sure to try Sarawak coffee - it is delicious and can be found in any local 'Kopi-tiam' (coffee shop).

Bars

Kuching has a large number of clubbing districts.

Pandungan Road is in the city centre, in the Chinatown area. There are a handful of bars along this stretch that mainly cater to the working-class Yuppie crowd.

• Soho.
• The Office.
• MOJO@Denise.
• Grappa.

Travillion in Petanak, just after Pandungan Road, is home to many newer bars and mainly caters to the Young College crowd. It has bright signage, cheap alcohol, and Techno music. WARNING: Do be careful in this area as Gangster-brawls are not uncommon.

• amoeba'r. Ambient/chillout music, self-proclaimed "retro-modern" decor.
• MC3
• Zen
• BarZing!
• Jungle

Taman Sri Sarawak is opposite the Hilton Hotel. This area is the closest to the Kuching Waterfront and mainly caters to the Tourist Crowd.

• Miami
• Latino
• Cats City
• Rainforest

Bukit Mata, a short stroll from Taman Sri Sarawak, was very popular in its heyday but seems to be dying out now. It is still popular with Tourists and the local regulars. Bars include:

• Eagle's Nest
• The Cottage
• Piccadilly's Music Cafe

And a few more scattered elsewhere:

• Link, Kuching Civic Centre 22F, Jalan Budaya  Located 22 stories up on the 2nd-top floor of the Civic Centre (press Level 2 in the lift). Its very posh, classy, and expensive - but has stunning 360-degree views of Kuching City. You will need to grab a taxi to get here as it is located outside of the City centre.

• The Living Room, Wayang Street (opposite Fata Hotel, a few shops from Blablabla Restaurant). A chic but very casual Tapas bar that's decorated with a Iban/Balinese theme. Be sure to sit outside in the 'longhouse' area where you can lie on comfortable cushions and gaze at the night sky while sipping Mojitos. The food is also excellent.

Espresso / Juice Cafes

• Bing!, Pandungan Road. A laid-back cafe with a Balinese theme that serves excellent Lattes and fresh fruit juices. They are also popular for their cakes, deli-style gourmet sandwiches and light meals.

• Tao, Pandungan Road. A cafe with a funky Buddha theme, and relaxing water-feature inside. They serve espresso coffees, fruit juices and cakes - which are exceptable, but aren't as good as Bing!s'. They also have a private art gallery upstairs.

• The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, inside Sarawak Plaza Shopping Centre. That popular franchise.

• Frappe, Travillion area. A small cafe with contemporary furnishings. They have excellent coffee and cakes.

• Caffe` Cino, Inside Hilton Hotel. They serve good coffee, desserts and meals. But the prices are abit on the high side.

• Scoops, Taman Sri Sarawak (opposite Hilton Hotel). A cool joint that opened in 2006. They specialise in a range of Gelatos and change the flavors daily. They also serve coffee and cakes.

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ACCOMMODATION

Budget

• The Fairview, No.6 Jalan Taman Budaya, Tel.: +60-82-240017, +60-13-8011561,  Colonial House with tropical garden, a nice place that feels like home.

• Singgahsana Lodge, No.1 Temple Street, 93000 Kuching (opposite Harbour View Hotel). Tel.: +60-82-429 277,  A relatively new and hip Back-packers lodge that is centrally located at the Kuching waterfront. It is clean and very reasonably priced. Possibly the best-value budget accommodation you can find in the city area.

Mid-range

• Harbour View Hotel. Lorong Temple, 93100 Kuching. Tel: +60-82-274 666, . A two-three star business-class hotel that is centrally located in front of the Kuching Waterfront. The standard rooms are actually quite basic and is nothing to shout about. Despite that, its still usually occupied by Tour Groups.

• Hotel Grand Continental. Jln. Ban Hock, 93100 Kuching. Tel: +60-82-230 399,  A comfortable 3-star hotel located about 15 minutes walk from the Kuching Waterfront.

• Kuching Park Hotel. Lot 606 Pandungan Road, Kuching. Tel: +60-82-239 888, . A standard 2-3 star hotel located a short drive away from the city centre.

• Kingwood Inn. Lot 618 Pandungan Road, Kuching. Tel: +60-82-330 888,  Another standard hotel that's probably abit better than Kuching Park Hotel.

Splurge

• Crowne Plaza Riverside Kuching, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, tel. +60-82-247777,  Despite the name, this is the one riverside hotel that isn't actually riverside (although it's just across the street).

• Hilton Kuching, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, tel. +60-82-248200,  Probably the top digs in town, with great riverside location.

• Holiday Inn Kuching, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, tel. +60-82-423111,  Getting a bit old, with a dumpy pool area - although guests can also use the facilities at the Crowne Plaza across the road.

• Merdeka Palace Hotel, Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg, tel. +60-82-258000,  Kuching's oldest luxury hotel, its rooms aren't quite as spectacular as the lobby, but the hotel has infinitely more colonial character than the riverside set. Located right next to the Sarawak Museum, yet still within striking distance of the riverfront. The rooftop pool has a great view over Kuching. Rack rates steep at around RM300, but steep discounts in the off season can chop that in half.

• Somerset Gateway Kuching, Jalan Bukit Mata, tel: +60-82-250958  Part of the Ascott group of hotels, they offer comfortable serviced-apartments in the city centre.

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JUST OUTSIDE KUCHING

If you're looking for a change of scenery - but don't want to stray too far from the city, than Kuching is the ideal place to be in. Most of the National Parks and other outdoor activities are not located far away. In less than an hour, you can be transported into a world of lush rainforests and fresh air, and than be back in Kuching before dinner time!

• Bako National Park — home to the odd-nosed proboscis monkey

• Kubah National Park — jungle trails and waterfalls only 40 minutes away from Kuching

• Sarawak Cultural Village located 35 km away from Kuching, is a "living museum" that showcases the different races and cultures of Sarawak. It is also the site of the annual Rainforest World Music Festival 

• Semengoh Rehabilitation Centre. A few kilometres past the airport is this well-run rehabilitation centre where it is possible (if you're lucky) to spot one of the 28 resident urang-utangs. Feeding times at the centre are at 9am and 3pm, but be aware that these beautiful primates might NOT make their appearance if there is enough fruit to forrage in the jungle (especially in during the wet season). Other animals included a few very dreary looking honey-bears in very confined cages.

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