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DESTINATION GUIDE

TERENGGANU

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INTRODUCTION

Terengganu (also Trengganu) is a state on the eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia in Malaysia. The primary attractions of the state are the beautiful tropical Perhentian and Redang Islands.

DIRECTIONS TO TERENGGANU

Most visitors to the Perhentians bypass the bulk of Terengganu and instead transit via Kota Bharu, in the neighboring state of Kelantan, which offers better connections by air and train and is only one hour away. However, Kuala Terengganu and other locations along the main north-south highway are accessible via long-distance bus from Kuala Lumpur and various other cities.

GETTING AROUND TERENGGANU

By car

There is a substantial network of paved roads in the state.

By bus

There are many intrastate bus routes. In addition, if you stand by the side of the main coastal highway in a village, you can hail intercity buses if you want to go to Kuala Terengganu or other major cities in the state. The intercity buses will usually stop if you hail clearly enough for the driver to see you.

THINGS TO DO

Many tourists come to Terengganu to go to islands like the Perhentians to swim and scuba dive, but the coast itself is beautiful and pleasant and dotted with peaceful villages (kampung in Malay), and Tasik Kenyir, a reservoir lake in Ulu (upriver) Terengganu, provides breathtaking panoramas.

CUISINE

Eat

Terengganu's most famous culinary product is the keropok lekor, which comes in two forms: one is a thin deep-fried cracker much like keropok anywhere else in Malaysia, and the other is a thick hot dog-like sausage entirely unlike it. Both are made from fish paste and sago palm flour and should always be accompanied by a reddish-brown dipping sauce of tamarind, chili, sugar and vinegar. Much good inexpensive food is to be found in coffee houses (kedai kopi) along roadsides in villages, and of course in cities. And do not miss the chance to buy some of Terengganu's delicious fresh fruits in any of the pasar (bazaars) in the cities and larger towns.

Drink

Alcohol is generally looked down upon throughout Malay-dominated Terengganu and is served only in Chinese (non-Halal) restaurants. It is possible to buy Malaysian and imported beer by the can at large grocery stores.

Non-alcoholic drinks are widely available, including fresh juices, coconut water (air kelapa), corn drink (air jagung) and the array of packaged drinks sold elsewhere in Malaysia. The widest variety of branded products is available in Kuala Terengganu, but there are drink stalls on the side of any major road.

ADVICE FOR TRAVELLERS

Terengganu, with its nickname as Darul Iman (Abode of Faith in Allah), is known as a conservative, Islamic state. You will have a better experience if you respect local mores when you are outside of resort areas where people are used to foreigners dressed in bikinis. It is not necessary or expected for non-Muslim women to wear a headscarf (though it would certainly meet with approval), but both men and women should wear clothing that covers all or at least most of their legs (no short shorts), and women should wear blouses or dresses which cover their torso. Long sleeves are preferable for women, and outfits which show the shoulders or midriff should be avoided. The watchword is modesty. Tourists dressed in shorts and skimpy tops are really out of place in this state.

JUST OUTSIDE TERENGGANU

Culturally, Terengganu has a lot in common with the neighboring state of Kelantan, but the cultural and historical differences between the two states make Kelantan interesting and well worth including in your trip to Terengganu. A bus ride from Kuala Terengganu to Kota Bharu lasts only about three hours.