INTRODUCTION
Tioman (Malay: Pulau Tioman) is a small island, 39 km long and 12 km wide, located off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia
Tioman's beaches were depicted in the 1958 movie South Pacific as "Bali Hai". In the 1970s Time magazine selected Tioman as one of the world's most beautiful islands. The densely forested island is still sparsely inhabited, but is surrounded by numerous white coral reefs, making it a haven for scuba divers from around the region.
Already the most developed of Malaysia's eastern islands, a controversial RM 40 million marina project for Kampung Tekek, complete with 175-meter cargo jetty, now threatens to speed up the pace of development on Tioman considerably - so get there before it's too late!
Note that Tioman is in Pahang ("East Coast") but the primary gateway Mersing is in Johor ("South").
DIRECTIONS TO TIOMAN
BY BOAT
Most visitors arrive by ferry from Mersing on the mainland. There are a number of ferry operators and three types of ferry. The largest, slowest (approx 2 hours) ferry is the most economical; the smaller and faster catamaran costs more; the smallest and fastest (approx 1 hour) outboard speedboats are the most expensive option. Bluewater Express charges RM 45 for an adult ticket, RM 40 for a child ticket.
Some ferries also depart from Tanjung Gemuk to the north of Mersing.
Note that due to the significant reduction in demand, ferries run less frequently during the monsoon season (typically late October to mid/late February), and that during this period exceptionally bad conditions may shut them down completely for several days at a time.
Overland to Mersing: - several bus companies operate direct services to Mersing, including Transnasional (from Kuala Lumpur, Malacca, and Singapore); other services that use the east coast highway (eg Johor Bahru to/from Kota Bharu) also call at Mersing.
Overland from Singapore: - the most economical way is by local bus to the border (e.g. No. 170, which finally goes to Larkin), then minibus to Johor Bahru's Larkin bus terminal (e.g. CW 1 & 2 or No. 170; they depart right behind the money changer after clearing Malaysia immigration), and proceed to Mersing from there. The bus costs RM 8.80 one way - but an early start will be required if an overnight stop in Mersing is to be avoided. There is a 8:30AM bus from Larkin, which can be easily caught if one is at the Singapore checkpoint around 7AM.
A more convenient alternative is to take a Transnasional bus from Lavender Street bus terminus in Singapore all the way to Mersing. The bus lets down passengers to clear Singapore immigration, then again across the bridge at Malaysian immigration where all luggage has to be taken off the bus to clear customs. The earliest bus departs Singapore at 9AM, reaching Mersing by about 1PM, just in time for the 1:30PM speed boat. Bus tickets cost S$ 26.45 per adult, S$ 14.95 per child one way.
Direct ferries to/from Singapore's Tanah Merah ferry terminal used to run daily (except for the November to February monsoon period), but were discontinued in 2003; this service is now only available for about 4 weeks during the peak school holiday period (~June).
BY PLANE
The sole commercial operator to the island's small airstrip near Tekek is Berjaya Air, which flies 48 seat Dash-7 turboprops from Kuala Lumpur (60 min; RM214 one-way; daily) and Singapore (35 min; RM240 / S$111 one-way; daily peak season, several times a week during the monsoon season). Discounted fares may be available if booked in a package with accommodation. Maximum baggage weight is 10Kgs. Excess baggage charges seem to depend on how many passengers are on the flight.
Note that these flights use the secondary airports of Subang (SZB) in Kuala Lumpur and Seletar (XSP) in Singapore, so factor in transfer time from KLIA/Changi when making your plans.
No matter which way you choose to arrive, a marine park fee (RM5) is levied on all visitors to the island. Transfers can be arranged directly with resorts.
GETTING AROUND TIOMAN
Except for a short concrete path connecting the airport to the road to Tekek villageand on to the nearby Berjaya Resort, about 2km from Tekek, there are almost no roads on Tioman and local transport is by boat and 4WD.
By boat
By far the best and cheapest way of hopping from one village to the other is to use the Mersing/Tioman ferry service. On its way to and from Mersing it goes between Salang in the north and Genting in the south. The ferry will take you to most villages between from RM10-15 per person and is much cheaper than the private speedboat services.
Speedboats charge about RM 50 for a single trip, which is extortionate by Malaysian standards, but while you can try to negotiate they know full well that they're the only game in town (unless you hike). A single trip by boat as far as from the west coast to the east coast is RM 150 and can be shared if there are more passangers. Expect to pay double at night.
By jeep
Furthermore there are 4WD "taxis" from Tekek to Juara. They charge RM 75 (single person), RM 35 (two persons) or RM 25 (three or more). But be careful if it is (or was) rainy: the jeeps are likely to get stuck along the way, which involves the calling of some friends of the driver and lots of wasted time spent on a slippery jungle-road.
On foot
There are several jungle treks , following the power lines, which connect the Kampungs.
- Tekek - Juara
It is relatively easy to cross the island on foot from Tekek to Juara. The path up from Tekek is a well established but unpaved, 7 km long track with occasional stone steps to assist and a few fallen tree trunks to keep things interesting - it's feasible with a small backpack, but fairly strenuous, so allow plenty of time. On the east side, it's an easy broad concrete footpath with no steps all the way from the summit down to Juara. Allow a minimum of at least two hours for the whole thing, significantly more if you want to stop along the way or if you're carrying anything, and take plenty of water and bug repellent; also bear in mind that the path is unlit and that it gets dark early in the jungle (especially on the Tekek side).
- Tekek - Air Batang - Monkey Bay
It's also possible to walk from Tekek to Air Batang (ABC) (40 minutes) and from there to Salang (just follow the power cable); this is a less strenuous hike overall as it's relatively level, however in places the path itself is more difficult to negotiate.
Nevertheless, this path can exhibit some beauty, because it comes along the Monkey Beach and Monkey Bay, which lie next to each other (in fact, one can swim out of the bay of Monkey Beach and reach Monkey Bay on the right without problems). It takes about 70 minutes to get from ABC to Monkey Beach. Both beaches offer very good snorkelling. The only way to reach them (except for the path) are water taxis. The exhausted hiker may wait for one of them to pass by and get a ride - but be prepared to pay RM 50.
At Monkey Beach there is nothing, except the characteristic yellow sand and trees - a place definitely meant for relaxing. At the time of writing (April 2006) there was a place to buy water and softdrinks at Monkey Bay (the owner even offered fried rice), but again - except for this building there is nothing.
- Monkey Bay - Salang
At the north end of Monkey Bay, the path continues to Salang. Remember to follow the power lines, since the path may be hard to see sometimes. Furthermore it is quite punishing, because it goes uphill for a long time. Until Salang is reached, there is nothing but jungle. Allow at least 90 minutes for this part of the hike.
THINGS TO DO
SEE
Juara
Juara, which is a very quiet beach at the east coast (especially in the off season, when almost nobody is there), has some special things to offer. There are three rivers coming from the mountains, delivering cold freshwater to the beach - a chilling alternative to swimming in the sea, and a path leads to waterfalls in the jungle, which again is nice to take a swim and climb over the large rocks.
The place itself is divided into two beaches that are separated by a small hill, which is said to be the "origin" of Tioman. Some locals say: "you have not been on Tioman, if you did not stand on these rocks". (Perhaps this is just the opinion of the peaople of Juara - I can not tell). The beaches are definitely more beautiful than Air Batang and probably even lovelier than Salang.
- The beach more towards the north (where the jetty is) has very nice sand, but some dead corals in the shallow water. Swimming is ok, but walking in the water can be painful. At both ends of this beach is the mouth of one of the rivers mentioned above.
- The beach more towards the south is even quieter (probably because the jetty is at the other beach). The sand again is very nice and there are no obstacles in the water. At the south end of this beach the last of the three rivers meets the sea.
- As mentioned above, there are small waterfalls in the jungle, where one can take a swim in the basins or climb upstream over the boulders to explore the river. To reach the waterfalls, just follow a marked path for about 30 minutes. The path starts at the south beach (opposite of the great rocks, which lie on the beach) and is marked by the bottoms of cans, nailed to the trees and painted yellow. At the beginning of the path there are three such signs at a tree. If you walk along the only concrete road towards south, you can not miss it. The path is well visible all the time and very easy to walk, even with slippers.
- Finally, somewhere at the north beach seems to be a turtle hatchery.
DO
Scuba facilities are readily available, and the diving is reasonably good, especially in view of the proximity to Singapore. Most villages have a variety of dive shops. Padi Open water courses average at about RM900 (4 day course), and for lisenced divers each dive is roughly RM90).
Perhaps the most popular activity for visitors is snorkelling. Most resorts can arrange for speedboats or seabuses to take you to the beaches and small uninhabited islands nearby (such as Pulau Tulai, aka "Coral Island") and Renggis island where the snorkelling is at its best. The water is almost pristine save for the occasional litter. Just be careful of the small jellyfish, as they can pack a sting, and try not to lose your rental gear or you'll be subject to the renter's arbitrary fines. However, snorkelling is fantastic in front of most beaches and can rival that of any snorkelling trip at a fraction of the cost. Some of the best locations are as follows.
- Paya: A group of rocks adjacent from the beach offers a variety of colourful coral and fish.
- Tekek: The marine park, 3km north of Tekek, has a man-made artificial reef just off its jetty. The visibility can be questionable and theres not much coral but is teeming with fish.
- Air Batang: The best village for snorkelling. At ABC (the far end of the beach) one can snorkel around the rocks towards panuba with a full reef full of colourful coral and fish. Its not too deep, making it perfect for snorkelling. Even more colourful is the reef on either side of the jetty where one can see turtles and a vast garden of yellow coral.
SHOPPING
Tioman is a duty free zone and offers a good selection of alchohol and cigarettes at very cheap prices. The main outlet is "vision duty free" (past the hospital and school) and at the airport. Other villages such as Paya and Salang have small outlets.
CUISINE
EAT
Depending on where you eat, food can be quite expensive on Tioman, compared to other places in Malaysia. Western food can be up to RM15 per plate, whilst local food is cheap (between RM3-6 normally). Especially if you eat at the restaurants attached to the resorts and chalets, you should plan around RM 30+ per day (good breakfast, lunch and dinner).
The 1.5 l bottle of water costs between RM 2-3, some places offer refill with locally purified water for RM 1. Canned softdrinks are about the same, beer starts at RM 2 (Tiger beer at local shop).
DRINK
If you want nightlife and atmosphere, Air Batang is really your only option. Its 4 bars serve everything from cheap beer to cocktails and most do bonfire nights on the beach on occassion.
- Mañana, Juara (southernmost beach). Wooden open air lounge/terrace at the beach with cushions, very good selection of chilled music in the evening, good food and a nice flair. But don't expect any wild partys going on there. The place is almost in the middle of the south beach. At time of writing (April 2006) there was a volleyball net in front of it on the beach.
- Allo bar, Air Batang (turn left at the jetty towards Nazri 2) Fantastic beach bar, perhaps the best on the island. Beautifully arranged, cheap alchohol with a great atmosphere. Beer, like at most bars on Tioman is 3 for RM10 from 5-7pm. Otherwise expect to pay RM5 a can.
- Lime tree cafe, Air batang (near mokhtars place). Travellers hangout. Good place to relax day or night. Excellent food and cheap beer.
- Sunset Bar, Air Batang (Nazri's place). Serves a variety of homemade pizza (ranging from RM10-15), sunset bar is right on the beach.
- B&J Bar, Air Batang (near Johan's). Has a large selection of cocktails and licquers. Very chilled out.
ACCOMMODATION
While the most commercialized of Malaysia's east coast islands, Tioman has yet to be invaded by mass tourism on the scale of Penang or Langkawi and there are plenty of cheap beds to be found. However, if heading for anywhere other than the backpackers villages, reservations are advisable as getting to some of the more remote kampungs can be a hassle. Note that some places stay open year round, but many close for the monsoon season (typically end of October to mid/late February).
ADVICE FOR TRAVELERS
Most of Tioman's backpacker accommodation is to the north of the island, with numerous budget chalet operations clustered around Salang and Air Batang (sometimes also referred to as ABC - although this is the name of the resort at the northern end of the beach, not the beach itself), and to a lesser extent Tekek. Dorm beds start about RM 20, single rooms around RM 40 and up.
Amongst the most popular are:
- Babura Seaview, Kg Tekek. RM55 onward.
- Salang Indah Resorts, Kg Salang. RM30 onward.
- Mokhtar's Place, Kg Air Batang. RM30 onward.
- Nazri 2, Kg. Air Batang
Juara, a quieter beach on the east coast, also has a selection of budget rooms at similar prices.
JUST OUTSIDE TIOMAN
Leaving the island is by ferry to Mersing again. The BlueWater ferry departs at 8:30AM (Salang) and picks up travellers all the way down. There is another Ferry at noon. In between there are speedboats (e.g. at 9:40AM), but one has to pay RM 45. If you already posses a return ticket for the BlueWater ferry, RM 10 surcharge apply.
From Mersing again there are busses to Kuala Lumpur, a direct bus to Singapore (RM 10.40) at noon and other times, a direct bus to Johor Bahru (ca. RM 9), and probably even more connections.
If you don't book the bus to J.B. or Singapore in advance, they are most likely full. The alternative for the spontaneous traveller is to take the local bus to Kota Tinggi (RM 6.90, less than 2 hrs.) and from there the local bus to Johor Bahru's Larkin terminal (RM 3.80, less then 1 hour). The terminal for local busses in Mersing is conveniently placed near the ferry terminal.
